Cooling System Problems

By E. Meloan (This article was originally published in the July, 2000 issue of the Spark Coil.)

Howdy Fellow Model T’ers! Summer is certainly here and the hot weather can be a challenge for our Model T’s so let’s talk about Henry’s cooling system and the after-market water pump.

Henry’s first Model T’s used a water pump. After the first couple of hundred cars, the water pump was eliminated and the T’s from then on relied on a thermo-siphon system for cooling. This worked reasonably well when the cars were new and the blocks and radiators were clean. The “Copperheads” were more likely to boil than the later black radiators with their slightly larger capacity.

Lots of after-market manufacturers made a good living supplying water pumps for the T’s, and a lot of folks use them today. But are they really needed? A T with a clean block, good radiator and properly adjusted fan can run on the hottest days without boiling over! In most cases, a water pump is covering over the problem and not really fixing the source.If you talk to an owner with a pump, you’ll almost always hear two complaints. The pump leaks and the fan belt won’t stay on the pulleys. Most will agree that water pumps are a doggone nuisance! They keep them because they keep the water moving so fast it has less chance to boil.

Let’s look at the cooling system and see what is causing it to overheat and what we can do to eliminate the problem without using a water pump. First, let’s look at the things that can cause a T to run hot:

1. Running with the spark lever too far retarded or too far advanced will cause overheating. Murray Fahnstock once said that for every speed there is only one correct instant for the plugs to fire. If it is too retarded the gas is ignited too late as the piston travels down on the power stroke. This wastes power and causes the engine to work harder. If it is too advanced the gas is ignited before the piston has started down on the power stroke. Not only does this waste power but it is hard on the rod and main bearings! So get in the habit of moving the spark lever to the spot where the car pulls the best but doesn’t knock.

2. A head and block that are not clean will certainly contribute to overheating. Flushing with chemical cleaner and then always using an anti-rust solution or antifreeze to keep it clean will help this area.

3. Probably the biggest cause of overheating is the radiator. Just because the radiator looks good doesn’t mean it cools well! If the radiator is the original or had been on the car for many years, vibration and continued heating and cooling will have caused the fins to loosen on the tubes and the radiator can not transfer the heat! A radiator with good flow but loose fins will NOT cool a T! The choice is to either replace the core or buy a new radiator.In almost every case, this will fix the overheating problem and a pump will not be necessary.

When replacing the radiator, we now have a choice of either the original round tubes which should be used on a show car or the modern flat tubes which have superior cooling ability. If you’re going to tour, choose the flat tubes. They do make a difference and look very good.

4. The fan belt tension also plays an important part in cooling. Too loose and the fan will slip and not do its job. This is especially true if you’re using a water pump. Too tight and the belt and fan bearings will wear rapidly.

It’s not a bad idea to use a 50/50 mixture of anti-freeze all year round. Contrary to some folks, anti-freeze does not leak worse than water. You can just see it better since it doesn’t evaporate as quickly. It does raise the boiling point and that’s helpful in our engines where we don’t have too many degrees to play with.I would suggest replacing anti-freeze every year or two.

See you down the road…

Part II: Removal and Disassembly

by John Ironside

(This article was originally published in the July, 2012 issue of the Spark Coil.)

To remove the drive train from the car, you have to support the rear of the car from the frame. To do this, I first put the rear axle on jack stands and removed the wheels. I then removed the muffler to make way for a 4×4 timber support extended between wheel wells under the frame and resting on a second set of jack stands as shown in the photo below.

Next I removed the brake rods and brake shoes and set aside. Small aftermarket shock absorbers connected the rear spring to the axle and proved very difficult to remove. With the jack stands positioned to catch the rear axle, a C-clamp was finally positioned between the spring and perch on each end so the bolts could be driven out. Disconnecting the front was achieved by positioning a support under the universal ball and removing the four bolts. When the drive shaft was pulled free of the transmission, the universal fell on the floor. Inspection showed that the pin connecting the universal to the drive shaft had sheared off and the universal was floating in the drive train (a dangerous arrangement). The maximum recommended movement of the pins in the universal is 0.020 inch, but three of the four pins actually measured about 0.050 inch and the universal should be replaced. Finally the rear axle was free and could slide out from under the car on timber ramps to the garage floor.

The first step in disassembly was to remove the radius rods and set them aside. With the drive shaft in the vertical position, the six bolts around the pinion bearing spool were removed and the drive shaft lifted out of the differential. A drip pan was aligned under the differential and the axle was rotated to the drive shaft opening down position to allow the differential “goo” to drain out over the next couple of days.

Since the universal was already removed, the drive shaft easily pulled out of the drive shaft housing. A brass bushing is pressed into the end of the housing at the universal end to support the drive shaft and I found it to have excessive wear. The pinion bearing was found to have a broken roller. After fixing the universal end of the drive shaft in a vise, the cotter pin and pinion nut were removed from the other end with substantial effort. A few taps with a hammer removed the pinion gear and allowed the pinion bearing to slide off the drive shaft. I then used a solvent to clean the existing parts. To clean the interior of the housing I stapled a rag dipped in solvent to a long stick to remove the debris.

Below is a photo of the parts on the pinion end of the drive shaft. The pinion bearing with the defective roller removed is on the left. The teeth on the pinion gear were badly worn and pinion needed to be replaced. The pinion bearing sleeve is press fit onto the drive shaft and the notch in the sleeve is supposed to fit around the pinion key. The sleeve was pushed too far onto the shaft and was not in alignment. A friend helped me remove the sleeve and dress the threads on the end of the drive shaft. Then the pinion thrust bearings could be removed from the drive shaft and they appeared to be in good shape.

In the next part of this story I will describe the experience of reassembling the drive shaft with new parts.

Part IV: Rear Axle Disassembly

by John Ironside (This article was originally published in the February, 2013 issue of the Spark Coil.)

After placing the axle on a couple of jack stands, the first task was to drive out the sleeves that were worn away in each of the spring perches (see photo below).

The next step was to remove the bolts holding the housing together around the differential and pull both sides of the housings off the axles. The inner bearings were pulled out of the axle housings and found to be in good condition. There are three thrust rings located on each side of the differential, and the center ring in each group was found to be made of babbit which confirms that the drive train is probably original 90-year old construction—brass is the current preference for the center washer so the existing babbit material will be replaced. The outer steel washers were measured to be within spec and in good shape.

To hold the outer steel thrust washer in position, one pin is pressed into each side of the differential case and two pins are pressed into each of the axle housings. All of the pins were worn to an oval shape and needed to be replaced. The differential case is attached to the ring gear with ten bolts wired together in pairs. The severe wear of the pinion gear was matched on the outer edge of the ring gear which will be replaced. I observed excessive end play in the axles supported in the differential case, and this needs to be addressed during the rebuild by replacing the fiber disc between the axles with the proper thickness.

Removing the three case bolts allows the case to be opened for inspection of the internal parts. Measurement of the spider gears, spider gear arms, axle gears, and openings in the differential case demonstrated compliance with original specs. All of the gears appeared to be in good condition. The axles appeared to be straight and true with no signs of excessive wear in the bearing areas. The housings were measured for alignment by standing them on end. A carpenter square was held at multiple locations around the axle to take high and low offset measurements. Since the measurement variation was very small, I determined the housings to be true and in good shape.

As a result of the inspection, the following parts were ordered for the rebuild of the rear axle:

– Ring Gear – 40 tooth standard

– Center Thrust Washers (brass)

– Thrust Washer Pin Replacement Kit

– Modern Inner Oil Seals

– Outer Bearing Sleeves (left & right)

– Grease Cap, Grease Seal, & Washer Sets

– Spring Perch Sleeves

– Drive Train Gasket Set

The cost of the parts order was about $450.

In the next issue of the Spark Coil, the discussion will focus on reassembly of the rear axle and the fitting of replacement parts into the assembly.

Part VI: Rear Axle Installation

by John Ironside (This article was originally published in the January, 2014 issue of the Spark Coil.)

When my father bought our Model T in 1955, there were no shackles attaching the leaf springs to the spring perches on the axle. Instead, the car was equipped with aftermarket shock absorbers to make this connection. Both the front and rear shock absorbers—consisting of a heavy spring within a compression cylinder—have been disassembled, cleaned to bare metal, and refinished. I have never seen the name of a manufacturer on these devices.

The front shock absorbers have a threaded hole in the center to allow compression with a threaded rod so the hanger bolts can be inserted. The shock absorbers on the rear axle are a different configuration because they have no threaded rod hole, so installing the rear shock absorbers became a two-step process. First, the shock absorber was compressed to get the hanger bolt through the perch as shown in Photo #1. A furniture clamp was used because the C-clamp would not hold. In the second step, two C-clamps were required to position the absorber for insertion on the hanger bolt through the leaf spring hole as shown in Photo #2.

Photo #3 shows the shock absorbers mounted on the rear axle and attached to the bottom leaf of the rear springs. During removal of the rear axle, the rear springs were also removed, disassembled, cleaned to bare metal, and refinished. Discussion on the Model T Forum suggested that a coating of graphite paint on the springs between leaves would improve performance and decrease spring noise. So I bought a can of Slip Plate graphite paint for about $8, and I coated each leaf thoroughly with the dry lubricant (grey color in Photo #3).

I took great precaution when disassembling and reassembling the leaf spring pack. When the springs are all compressed, tremendous energy is stored and it can be very dangerous if accidentally released. To reassemble the spring, the individual leafs were stacked together and I inserted a threaded rod with a washer and nut on each end through the center hole as shown in Photo #4. The nuts were tightened slowly—making sure the leafs stayed in alignment—until I reached full compression. Then I installed C-clamps on each side while the threaded rod was removed and the permanent compression bolt was installed. Then I installed spring clamps around each side of the pack to ensure that alignment would be maintained.

Photo #5 shows the rear axle with leaf spring ready for installation. Having temporarily wired the universal end of the drive shaft up into alignment with the engine, I rotated the male end of the universal to fit the socket in the transmission, and then shoved the entire assembly forward into position. Then I jacked up the rear axle to mate the spring with the frame. On the floor in Photo #5 is a U-shaped 1-1/2″ bar that is fastened to the frame with U-bolts on each leg to hold the rear springs in place. This bar was another feature on the car when purchased in 1955, and the hole at the apex suggests that this aftermarket device was used as a hitch. Also on the floor is a leather pad that was fabricated to match original design; it is fitted between the spring and frame. After bolting up the spring to the frame, I completed the job by bolting the universal joint cap to the transmission housing with cotter keys on the upper two bolts and wire-tying the two lower bolts together.

In the concluding part of this story I will address the challenges faced while installing the parking breaks prior to mounting the wheels.

Troubleshooting Generator Problems

by E. Meloan (This article was originally published in the March, 2002 issue of the Spark Coil.)

In past issues of the “Spark Coil” we have talked about various parts of the electrical system but we touched only briefly on the Model T generator. A recent discussion in the E-Mail Model T Forum got me thinking this might be a good topic for discussion.

Beginning in with the 1919 closed cars, Ford added a generator and starter to the Model T.  By 1921, it was available on both closed and open models. The addition of the starter made the Model T a much more practical car for the ladies to drive and Ford was quick to point out the advantages to these new potential customers.

When the generator is working properly, we seldom give it much thought but when it stops charging the battery, we very quickly become aware of it whether we want to or not! So, let’s take a few minutes to discuss generator problems and how we diagnose and repair them.

The generator cutout will also need to be checked. The cutout is really a simple mechanical switch which disconnects the generator from the electrical circuit when the generator is not putting out sufficient current. The cutout is needed because if the circuit is not broken, the generator will act as a motor and will DRAW current instead of producing it! This would quickly discharge the battery. A cutout that fails to close will not only prevent a charge but can cause the generator to burn out!

First, make sure the battery is fully charged. Use a charger, if necessary, to charge it. Then, using an analog voltmeter, we should first make sure we have voltage on the battery side of the cutout when the engine is not running. We should use an analog (meter with a pointer) rather than a digital one because the digital meter (being an “averaging” device) will not display changes in readings as accurately as analog. We should have approximately 6 volts on the battery side of the cutout. If not, check the wiring from the cutout to the dash wiring block. These screws can get loose and corrosion can also cause an open circuit.

Now start the engine and set it at a high idle. Take a heavy wire or a pair of pliers and jumper from one side of the cutout to the other. If the ammeter registers a charge, the cutout is bad. Replace it. If the ammeter shows a heavy discharge, the generator is probably shorted and will need to be removed and repaired. If the ammeter doesn’t move, then the cutout is probably OK but we are not getting any generator output. Turn off the engine.

Remove the generator brush cover and check for drops of solder on the cover. If you find them, the generator has overheated and “thrown” solder and will need to be removed and repaired. If all looks OK, start the engine again and press a piece of medium fine sandpaper (not emery cloth!) against the armature until it is clean and shining copper. Raise the engine speed and see if you have a charge now. If you do, adjust the third brush to give about 6 to 8 amps charge–6 if you drive mostly in the daytime, 8 if you drive much at night.

If you still have no charge after the above tests, you may have a shorted or open armature or field coil or a shorted or open third brush assembly. The insulator strip under the moveable third brush is also a likely spot for a short but you’ll need to disassemble the generator to check it.

If none of the above has helped, you should probably consider letting an electrical shop rebuild the generator or buy one from the model T parts suppliers. Ron Patterson (Coilman) also rebuilds and sells generators and starters and has an excellent reputation. You can find his ad in any issue of either club magazine. Get that generator working and…

I’ll see you down the road…

Ignition System 

Coil Condensors

By Ron Patterson (This article was originally published in the July, 2002 issue of the Spark Coil.)

Much has been written about rebuilding Model T ignition coils and the correct part to use as a replacement capacitor.

When operating, the ignition coil has high voltage spikes occurring in the primary circuit. To withstand this environment the correct type capacitor must be used or it will fail very quickly.

In addition to a .47uF and 400 VDC rating, the capacitor must have a sufficient capability to withstand these high voltage spikes. This specification is dV/dt. I won’t go into all the details, but suffice it to say this specification is expressed in Volts per Microsecond.

You can obtain capacitors with correct UFarad and VDC ratings, but do not have sufficient dV/dT rating. These capacitors are usually smaller and many rebuilders make the mistake of selecting them because they are easy to get into the coil box.

This brings me to “Coilman’s” first law: “if the replacement capacitor is small and easy to fit inside the coil box it is the wrong type”! The correct capacitor needs to be shoehorned into the coil box!

The correct part is film foil type construction (not metalized Mylar®) with a rating of .47 uF, 400 VDC and a rating in volts per microsecond in the range of 500 to 900. I have installed over 7000 of this type capacitor in rebuilt Model T ignition coils and never had a failure. The smaller metalized Mylar® type construction capacitors desired because of their size, have ratings in the range of 40-60 volts per microseconds. They will fail very quickly in Model T ignition coils.

The term “Orange Drop®” has been commonly referred to as the correct capacitor, but beware, Orange Drop® capacitors are made in several different types and you have to specify the correct type for Model T ignition coil rebuilding.

The correct Orange Drop® capacitor in small quantities can cost $4-$6 each when purchased from an electrical component distributor. Lang’s Old Car Parts and T-Nuts Model T parts suppliers carry the correct part, buy them in quantity and pass along a significant savings to the Model T hobby.

Ron the Coilman

Tour Season is here again and this might be a good time to quickly review some safety tips that will help us have a trouble-free fun tour in our T’s…

1) Check your tire pressures before beginning the tour. Clincher tires MUST have 55 to 60 pounds pressure in each tire! NOT 35 pounds like the later 21 inch balloon tires. If you don’t have 55 to 60 pounds, the tire and tube will very likely creep on the rim and the result will be a blowout from a severed valve stem!

2) Make sure your spokes are tight! If your spokes are talking to you by clicking when you drive slowly through the parking lot, they are begging you to tighten them. If you ignore their plea, you are very likely to have a wheel collapse when turning a corner or letting a wheel run off the paved surface. This brings up another point… If a wheel accidentally goes off the pavement, don’t jerk the steering wheel to try and force the wheel back on the road! This puts far too much lateral strain on the spokes! Slow down and gently ease the wheel back onto the pavement.

3) Make sure the rear wheels are TIGHT on the axles and check and grease the front wheel bearing. When re-installing the bearings, tighten them until the wheel binds, then back off about a quarter turn. Turn the wheel until the valve stem is at the 3 or 9 o’clock position and let the wheel go. It should be free enough to turn slowly till the valve stem is at the bottom. This won’t work if you have balanced wheels but you should be able to give a small push and have the wheel continue to turn easily. Re-check after you tighten the bearing retaining nut! Many times the nut will force the bearing in enough to lose the free play in the bearing! Don’t forget the cotter pins in the axles!

4) Make sure the front axle radius rod ball cap is snug and wired with safety wire! If not wired, the nuts may stay tight but the double threaded bolt can unscrew from the cap housing! Have a great touring season and…

Distributor

By E. Meloan (This article was originally published in the July, 1999 issue of the Spark Coil.)

Howdy Fellow Model T’ers!  In past columns we’ve talked about various parts of the Ford ignition system.  We’ve covered timers, the magneto, coils and sparkplugs.  This time, let’s discuss the growing popularity of using a distributor and completely eliminating the need for magneto, coils and timer!

If you do an informal survey of the folks who tour a lot in their T’s I think you’ll find that more than half of them are now using a modern distributor and single spark coil system.  Those who have them generally like them.  There are those, who enjoy the buzz of the old spark coils and continue to use the original system and when properly adjusted the timer and coils can work equally as well but the distributor is a much simpler system to get adjusted and working and… unless you’re using an Anderson timer, the distributor is probably more trouble free.

There are three distributors that currently make up the bulk of the systems sold.  One uses a distributor head from a japanese car, another uses a Volkswagen head and the third uses a Bosch head.  All seem to be constructed pretty well and all will probably do the job but there are differences.

Lets take the Japanese model first.  This kit is made up by John Stolz in Weatherford, Texas.  It comes complete with 6 or 12 volt coil, idler pulley, sparkplug wires and special wrenches.  It’s a nice package with everything you need to convert.  The other two do not include the sparkplug wires which will add about $10.00 to their cost.

The Stolz distributor mounts down in the same position as the original timer which eliminates any play that the others may have in the spiral gear and shaft they use.  That’s an advantage but the location is also a disadvantage in my opinion.  The distributor is down in front where it will be coated with oil AND it’s not in a position where you can set the points easily!   Dick Chambers plans to install one of these on his “Peach Flat” Model T and I’ll let you know his experiences with it.

The second choice uses a Volkswagen head.  When you buy this one, you’ll also need to buy a coil, coil bracket and sparkplug wires so don’t forget to order them at the same time.  The VW model clamps where the timer was but the distributor itself is on top of a vertical shaft which puts the points up where they are easy to set or replace and easy to adjust for timing.  The VW rotor turns opposite to the Bosch unit and so it requires an slightly more complicated linkage with two rods and a small arm to reverse the motion so that when the spark lever is up the distributor is retarded.  There’s nothing wrong with this but it does take a little longer to install and adjust the rods for the correct distances.  The VW distributor will make it difficult to get to the fan belt adjustment because of the position of its vertical shaft.  Once installed, the VW distributor works well and spare parts are available at any local auto supply.

The third system we’ll discuss uses the Bosch head.  This one also places the distributor head on the end of a vertical shaft making it easy to adjust or replace the points.  The Bosch also is positioned so that it does not interfere with the fan belt tensioning bolt.  Another advantage of the Bosch is that the direction of rotor travel allows a simple single control rod with two less adjustments and less chance of play in the spark retard/advance.  Bosch replacement parts should also be readily available at local parts suppliers.

The distributor does not need the magneto and, in fact, will not run well on one.  So if you have magneto problems the distributor is a quick and painless solution that offers very good performance and possibly improved power if your mag or spark coils are not in top condition.  If running 12 volts you will want to place a dropping resistor in series with the coil to drop the voltage down to 8 volts.  This increases point life.

See you down the road…

Magneto

By E. Meloan (This article was originally published in the January, 1999 issue of the Spark Coil.)

In our last issue, I talked about one part of the Model “T” ignition system.  Various timers were discussed and I recommended the Anderson Timer that is now being manufactured by Bob Thompson.  There are two other things which are vital to the smooth operation of the original system the “T” used.  They are the magneto and the coils.

There’s a lot of discussion about whether the original coil/timer system can work as well as an after-market distributor.  Having run both systems in my 12 and 22 T’s, I can tell you that my personal feeling is the original coil/timer system can work just as reliably and with no more adjustment than a distributor system IF the coils have a good condenser, are adjusted correctly  and the magneto puts out enough voltage OR you use a 12 volt battery!  We’ll talk about the 12 volt option further down the page.

Let’s talk briefly about the magneto.  To have a sweet running  coil system you must have a magneto that will put out about 7 volts while idling and about 25 volts or more when driving down the road.  A number of factors can effect the magneto’s output.  The most common problem is probably magnets which over a period of 75 years have lost much of their magnetism due to heat and vibration.  While it is certainly better to recharge low magnets while out of the engine, I have recharged them successfully using three 12 volt batteries in series and carefully lining up the magnets using a compass.  The method is described in a number of publications so I won’t go into details here.

Another cause of low voltage from the magneto is wear on the engine’s main bearings!  As the bearings wear the space between the magnets and the coils increases and the voltage drops rapidly!  During the Model “T” era, a number of companies offered gadgets designed to control the end-play to keep the magnets near the magneto coils but I know of none that are available today.  About the only solution I know of is to rebuild the engine and set the clearance correctly when you reassemble.

The last set of problems we can run across with the magneto are no voltage at all!  This will generally be caused by a shorted or open magneto coil.  The magneto coils have to withstand a very hostile environment. They are constantly bombarded with very hot oil which has minute particle of metal in it!  If some of these particles work their way through the insulation a short may result.  Sometimes it is possible to burn a short off by using the same setup we use to recharge the magnets.  A heavy jolt of high amperage current for 10 to 15 seconds may  burn off the shorting material.  This method is not for the “faint of heart” though.

An open magneto coil system is also a possibility.  Unfortunately, this  usually can not be repaired without disassembling the engine.

And one last place to check when you have no or low voltage is the magneto contact terminal on the top of the hogshead.  Sometimes fluff from the bands will build up here and work its way between the solder point on the coil assembly and the contact point of the terminal.  It’s easy to check and should be the first thing you look at if you have a low output problem.  Just take out the contact terminal and look for fluffy material on the solder point and contact point.  Clean them and cross your fingers.

You can check the voltage with an inexpensive AC voltmeter.  Yep!  the magneto is alternating current not direct current like the battery.   And by the way…  The alternating current means that the spark lever should be set slightly differently for magneto running than for battery running.  By careful experimentation, you’ll notice a definite “sweet spot” for the spark lever that the magneto and coils really like.  Look for it!  It’s well worth finding.

If your magneto just won’t “cut the mustard”, don’t give up!  A 12 volt battery will make the old “T” run just about as well as the magneto and will actually run a little better at slow speeds because the magneto drops to 6 or 7 volts when crawling along in the parades.

See you down the road…

Spark Plugs

By E. Meloan(This article was originally published in the May, 1999 issue of the Spark Coil.)

Our previous articles have touched on various parts of the Model T ignition system.  We’ve talked about the timer, magneto and coils.  Let’s finish up with a final, but vital, part of the ignition and talk about the choices of spark plugs that are now available for the T.

While some of us may not think so when watching the steam issue from the radiator, the Model T engine has a relatively cool combustion that’s typical of most of the low compression engines of the early 1900’s.  This means we will need a fairly hot plug if we want to avoid fouling and get the best efficiency.

Plug temperatures were controlled by the length of the porcelain insulator that was exposed around the electrode inside the firing chamber.  A long exposed area would transfer less heat through the plug body to the head and would heat up more.

All Model T’s came from the factory with Champion “X” plugs.  This was a very good spark plug for the T engine with a hot heat range that was nearly ideal.  Champion still makes these plugs but the price has risen from seventy five cents to between twenty-five and thirty dollars a plug!  Of course you’ll use this plug if you are building a show car but for those of us who don’t have show cars and want dependable smooth engine operation there are other plugs available that won’t require a trip to the bank for a loan.

There are several choices available from  all of the model T suppliers. I’ve tried all of them except the Autolite so let’s look at the various brands and what they cost.

The lowest priced plug is the autolite which not all suppliers even list.  Langs does include it in their catalog.  At the time I am writing this, the price listed is $3.40.  As I mentioned, I have not tried this plug and would like to hear from anyone who has used it and how they liked it.

At very close to the same price, is the Ford Motorcraft 11 plug at $3.50.  Now, you would think that Ford would know how to make a plug for thier own car but I have never been able to get this plug to work well!  Looking at the plug, I am really puzzled by this.  It’s obviously a hot plug and I can see no reason why it shouldn’t do a good job but I’ve tried it in several cars and with several plug gaps and have always ended up removing them after a few miles.  They ran ok at crusing speeds but I was never satisfied with the idle.

Next in price is my favorite plug for a driving T!  The Champion 25 plug.  These plugs cost more but,  in my opinion, they are worth the difference.  They currently sell for slightly less than $9.00 each.  They are a hot plug and provide smooth cruising and a very nice slow idle without a miss!

The most expensive plug is the Champion X plug.  This plug works as well as the Champion 25 but at a much higher cost of $25 per plug.  This plug has a tendency to widen its gap more quickly than any of the others because of the smaller diameter of the electrodes so you should check the gap more often with the X plug but they do run well.  Be careful when gapping NOT to bend the center electrode and crack the porcelain!

The final option is the 14mm adapters which allow us to use modern plugs.  I’m less than enthused about these for several reasons.  They don’t look original, they provide more chances for compression leaks.  Of course, they do let you use the seventy five cent plugs again!

Before leaving the subject of sparkplugs lets mention the correct gap.  Ford recommended a very narrow 25/1000’s for the early T’s.  He later increased the gap for T’s to 30/1000.  I usually use 35/1000 and really can’t see much difference.  I would NOT exceed 35 because of the additional strain on the secondary of the coils.

See you down the road…

Lubrication and Wheels 

Adapting Wood Hubs to Wire Wheels

By E. Meloan (This article was originally published in the September, 2000 issue of the Spark Coil.)

At our last meeting there was a brief discussion about the wire spoke wheels that were available of the 1926 and 27 Fords.  These are popular wheels and I think there’s good reason for that.  These wheels were quite an engineering marvel when they first appeared.  They were a solid welded unit which was very strong, durable and attractive in appearance.

The Model A Ford used the same design during all the years it was manufactured and the Model A and Model T wheels look alike to the casual observer.  Model A wheels are different though.  They have a slightly larger hub and different placement of the lug bolt holes.   While it’s still not too hard to find good T wheels, they are not as easy to get as good model A ones and that has led some folks to use the 21 inch A wheels on their T’s.   While wheels are not too hard to find, wire wheel T hubs are getting harder to find and are becoming more expensive when you can find good ones.

Larry Noller (Noller Conversions) in Colorado now offers adaptors which allow you to use a set of the readily available T wood wheel hubs with either Model T or Model A wire wheels.  You do have to order the adaptors for one or the other.  They do not fit both because of the difference in hub bolt hole location.  These adaptors are very well made and fit beautifully.  Combine them with a set of easy to find wood wheel hubs and you have a very nice set of wire wheel hubs! Most T suppliers have the Noller adaptors but you may have to ask for them.

Model A wheels came in two sizes.  If we want the ones that look like T wheels, we will need to find the 1928/29 wheels that are 21 inches in diameter.  They have the same distinctive rolled rim edge that the 21 inch T wheels have.  The 1930/31 A wheels are 19 inches in diameter and have a simpler flat rim edge similar to modern steel rims.

The distinctive “rolled” rim of the T and early A wheels is the first place we want to check when buying wheels.  This rolled edge tended to trap moisture which caused rust and you’ll find many of these wheels have small holes rusted completely through the inside area of the rolled edge where the tire is pressed against it.  A few small holes do not necessarily mean the wheel is unusable but the more there are, the more concerned we should be about the weakness of the rim and the rust we can’t see on the inside!  A few small holes can be fixed easily with JB Weld which stays there nicely.  If you have a choice use wheels which have solid rims but with care you can use less than perfect ones.

While looking at the rims, roll the wheel on a smooth level surface and watch it carefully.  A good rim will roll smoothly!  If the rim suddenly leans as it rolls, there’s probably a flat spot caused by the rim being dropped against a hard surface.  These flats can be corrected but it’s better if we don’t have to.

Look carefully for bent and broken spokes.  Spokes can be straightened but they may indicate a blow which has caused the wheel to be bent and this will cause a wobble!  Broken spokes can be welded back to the rim but again, the force that broke the spoke hints at possible wobble.

Next check the lug bolt holes.  Look at the back side of the hole for cracks and enlarged holes which allow the hub bolt to come clear through the wheel!  It’s a good idea to use a good lug nut to check the holes.

If the wheel passes all these tests, bolt it on your front axle and spin it!  Put a yard stick up against it and check for side wobble.  There’s usually a little.  Anything less than 1/4 inch is probably acceptable. The less the better!  Also look across the top as it spins and see if it wobbles up and down.  Again,  1/4 inch should be the maximum and less is better.

These wheels are stronger and safer than the 80 year-old wood wheels and they look great!

See you down the road…

Lubricating and Adjusting Front Wheel Bearings

By E. Meloan (This article was originally published in the January, 2003 issue of the Spark Coil.)

Howdy, fellow Model T’ers! I’d like to talk a little bit about the front wheel bearings on our Model T’s.

The wheel bearings are often an area that gets very little attention until it’s too late! When is the last time you inspected your front wheel bearings and repacked them? It probably should be done at least once a year and more often if you still have the early Ford ball bearings!

Jack up the front axle and put a couple of jack stands under there and we’ll take a look at our bearings…

Once we get the wheels off the ground, remove the hubcap. This is best done with the strange looking Ford wrench that’s available from all the T suppliers for a very reasonable price. It’s a flat piece of steel about 7 or so inches in length with several odd shaped holes. The largest of these is a nice fit on the end of the T hubcap and will help you remove it without damaging the cap! I usually put a paper shop towel over the cap and then put the tool on that to lessen the possibility of scratches.

With cap off, remove the cotter pin and unscrew the large nut. Don’t forget that the passenger side nut is a reverse thread! You will have tough time getting it off if you turn it the normal counter-clockwise direction to loosen it! Lay the nut on a clean cloth along with the cotter pin and remove the special washer that has a projection that fits in the slot on the spindle and keeps the washer (and nut) from turning.

Now, grab your hubcap removal tool and you will find that another opening on the tool fits the flat places on the edge of the taper bearing. Unscrew the bearing and lay it on the clean towel. You can now gently pull the wheel toward you and off the spindle. Remove the dust cap on the rear side of the wheel and take out the large inner bearing. Add it to the shop towel. Now we’re ready to do some inspecting. I like to put a blanket over the top of a 30 gallon trash can and gently lay the wheel down flat on the can. With a good light, we want to look very carefully at the front bearing race. The race should be snug in the wheel hub. You should NOT be able to move it! Wipe any grease off with a clean rag. The race surface should be shiny with NO pits or discoloration from heat. If you see any pits, you will need to replace the race. If not, you can probably re-use it. Now, turn the wheel over and do the same inspection of the race in the back of the wheel. Again, checking carefully for pits or heat discoloration. If this race passes inspection, you are ready to clean, inspect and repack the bearings.

Do NOT clean the bearings with mineral spirits or kerosene! These will leave a film on the bearings which will mix with the new grease and can cause it to break down and lose its lubricating effectiveness! I use lacquer thinner and have used gasoline in the past. Put the bearings in a clean can and pour in some thinner. Swish them around and dry them with a clean rag. It’s best not to spin the bearings, without lubricant, using compressed air. When clean, check the bearings just as you did the races. If any of the rollers have pits, the bearings will need to be replaced. Spin them with your hand and they should spin freely with no catching or hesitation. If they are ok, grab a glob of wheel-bearing grease and put it in your palm. Work the grease into the bearing until all the rollers are coated. Replace the rear bearing in the hub and carefully tap the dust retainer back on. There are modern retainers with a silicon rubber seal that do a much better job than the original retainers!

Put the wheel on the spindle and screw the front bearing onto the spindle. Screw the bearing up and tighten it snuggly. Then, back the bearing off about 1/4 turn. The wheel should spin easily and stop with the valve stem at the bottom. If it won’t, the bearing is too tight! Put on the washer and tighten the nut. Make sure the nut doesn’t cause the bearing to tighten so much it binds the wheel! Replace the cotter pin and hubcap. Do the other side and We’re ready for another year.

See you down the road…

Rear End Lubricants

By E. Meloan (This article was originally published in the May, 2000 issue of the Spark Coil.)

Howdy fellow Model T’ers!  In our last column we talked about oil and grease leaks and how to control them.  We briefly mentioned the rear end and I’d like to go into a little more detail on that area.  There seems to be a lot of confusion about the right lubricant for our T differentials.

When the T was a new car, Henry recommended 600 weight gear lube.  It’s still available from the T parts folks but you can’t just walk in your favorite local auto supply and get it.  This lack of ready availability makes folks look longingly at the modern 90 and 140 weight gear lubricants.  There are also some who like to add STP to the mix.

There are a couple of real “gotchas” associated with the modern lubricants!  They can be downright distressful to our old T’s if we don’t watch out!

First… let’s look at the “real” 600w stuff.  To be honest, it isn’t really all that good either.  If you’ve ever heated some 600w to make it easier to pour into the rear-end, you know that warm 600w “ain’t” too thick when the temperature rises!  Will it stay “put”?  Reid Welch (a very respected Model T mechanic) says, “No, not at least by mere virtue of its being “600w” – not if it thins a great deal at running temperatures.”  Staying “put”, as Reid puts it, is important for several reasons. It’s more likely to stay in the rear-end without leaking and it is less likely to squeeze out of the gears where it is supposed to be lubricating!

This is where the idea of adding some STP came into the mix. STP  sticks to the gears and bearings and helps prevent the loss of lubrication when the temperature rises.

So….  If 600 weight isn’t so good, why can’t we just stroll down to Auto Zone and get some EP140?

Once again, Reid Welch… “As always. Lubing a stock rear end is an exercise in compromise.  EP additives extend gear life but cannot be used safely with bronze  (or babbit) in the axle.”

EP gear lubricants contain phosphorus and sulphur based additives which are corrosive to bronze,  brass and babbit!

Aaron Griffey had the following to say about the subject…  “You can not use GL5 lubricants with bronze.  It must be GL4!  No modern differentials have bronze thrust washers.  They use tapered bearings instead. 600w is about the same thickness as 140 but is specially made without the additives that eat the original babbit thrust washers.”

So… The prevailing knowledge seems to suggest that if you have the original babbit thrust washers you should stick to the old 600w with maybe some STP added to it.

If you have the newer bronze thrust washers, you can use the modern 140 lube provided you use the GL4 version and not GL5.

Please note that all of the above applies to a standard T rear-end.  Folks running a Ruckstell  should use a lighter weight lubricant such as GL4 90.

One last thought before leaving the rear axle…  To prevent grease leaks at the rear hubs, good sealing and modest filling are necessary!  If you over fill nothing is going to prevent any weight of that extra grease from making its way onto your hubs, external brakes and those nice clean wheels!

See you down the road…

General Tips

By E. Meloan (This article was originally published in the January, 2001 issue of the Spark Coil.)

Howdy fellow Model T’ers!  I’d like to use the next column or two to talk about some short items that really don’t warrant a whole column but are things folks ask about from time to time.  If you know of a good tip or method of doing some repair or adjustment, 

Gas Lines…  The original factory gas line from the tank to the carburetor on the Model T was made of brass.  It varied in how it was made over the years but it was always brass.  It was NOT copper!  A quick look at the lines on T’s on the tours will reveal that an awful lot of them are soft copper.  Soft copper is illegal in some states because it will fatigue from vibration and break!  The break is almost always at the carburetor end because that’s where most of the engine vibration is.  A broken gas line is not a pleasant experience!  At the least, it’s a nuisance to repair and it’s not a very good idea to have a stream of gasoline  splashing on the hot exhaust manifold and pipe!  The auto suppliers carry pre-formed steel brake lines which make very nice steel gas lines for our T’s.  If you’re running copper, consider replacing with a steel line.

Tire Pressure… I know we’ve talked about this in the past but it keeps coming up.  30 inch clincher tires MUST have at least 50 to 55 pounds of air pressure!  Less than 50 pounds will allow the tire and tube to creep on the rim and cut off the valve stem.  It also causes rim cuts.  21 inch tires take 35 pounds.

Timing Gears…Originally, Ford used a cast iron gear.  They still work well but are noisier than fiber.  A Fiber gear works well in a T without a generator and will work for a while in a T with a generator but  the generator does increase the strain on a fiber gear.  Originally, fiber gears were laminated layers of fabric impregnated with binders at high pressure.  These were tough gears!  Modern fiber gears are frequently not made of laminations  but are simply molded ground up material.  They do not last as well as laminated gears.  The T suppliers also sell an aluminum gear which is a better choice when running a generator.  It will stand up better than a fiber gear but no better than the original cast iron one.  Bronze gears are also available but are really not needed unless you are running an overhead valve conversion.

Lubricating King Pins & Shackles… Ever feel like the oil runs out of the king pins faster than you can fill the little oil cups?  Bill Eads (Model T Nuts) says he uses a mixture 90% 600w and 10% 30 w oil.  Sounds like a great idea!  A mixture of STP and motor oil would also probably work well.  Ever get tired of unscrewing the spring shackle grease cups, filling, screwing, unscrewing, filling… You get the idea.  You can hide a modern pressure grease fitting inside the original cup and then use your modern grease gun.  Just tap the inside of the cup, coat the new fitting with JB Weld and screw it in.   Let the JB Weld cure and that’s it!  Just take off the cup cap and grease away.  Keeps the original look too.

Timers and Top Dead Center… When it comes to setting the timer to fire plug one at TDC, all timers are NOT alike!  The neat little wrench Ford provided and T suppliers sell will set the rod at the correct place for an ORIGINAL Ford timer.  It will not set it correctly for some Tigers and ALL New Days.  Don’t use the gadget and then crank assuming it will be correct!  You will probably get an unpleasant surprise!  Remove plug one and carefully turn the engine over till the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke.  Putting your thumb over the spark plug hole will tell you when the compression stroke starts (you’ll feel pressure against your thumb).  With the piston at TDC the number one coil should just begin to buzz when you pull the spark lever down a notch.  Bob Thompson suggets a different method for the Anderson Timer so read his directions with care.

See you down the road…

Spring Part II & Long Term Storage

by E. Meloan (This article was originally published in the July, 2001 issue of the Spark Coil.)

Howdy, fellow Model T’ers!  In our last issue, we talked about getting a T ready to drive after being stored for the winter.  Let’s touch on a few more things that may help when bringing a stored T to life.  I’ll also talk a little about storing a T.

Ok… we’ve changed the oil, put in water with a rust inhibitor or, better still, put in anti-freeze and there’s fresh gas in the tank.  We also have charged the battery.  But  what if the T won’t start…

If we have fresh gas and opening the petcock on the carburetor gives us a good stream of clean gas, then we might want to check the ignition system.  Disconnect the plug wires at the spark plug and position them near the base of the plug.  There are two reasons for doing this.  First, we can see what kind of spark we’re actually getting at each plug and second, if there’s a short in the timer wiring, the engine won’t kick back while we are hand cranking it. Turn the ignition switch to BAT and slowly turn the engine over with the hand crank.  Watch the coils and make sure that each one buzzes and that only one buzzes at a time!  The plugs should fire in the order 1,2,4,3.  If two coils buzz at once, you have a short in the coil primary wiring.  The most common shorts are at the timer connections.  This might be a good time to mention that the engine pan bolt under the timer should be put in with the nut under the pan instead of on top as all the other bolts are!  If this bolt is put in like the others, it’s very likely to short against a timer connection.

When you have all the coils working with a good spark at the plug, turn off the ignition and replace the plug wires.   Make sure the spark lever is all the way up (some cars seem to start better if the spark is a notch or two down from the top).  Set the gas lever 3 or 4 notches from the top, open the gas mixture about a quarter to a half turn richer than normal, pull out the choke and give her a try.  If you feel the mixture control isn’t set correctly from the last time the car ran… turn it gently down until it’s completely closed (don’t force it or you will score the needle and seat) and then open it about a turn and a quarter to a turn and a half.  That’s usually a good starting position.

Now let’s touch briefly on storing a car that won’t be used for a long period of time.  Some folks like to mix some two stroke engine oil with a small quantity of gas and run the engine for a few minutes with the mixture.  The two stroke oil tends to lubricate the upper end and will stay on surfaces for years.  Next, drain the gas tank and carburetor!  Modern gasoline begins to deteriorate on about a month!  If left in the tank and carburetor it will turn to varnish and you’ll have a real mess to clean out when you try to get the car running again!

Jack up the car and place jack stands under the axles at all four wheels.  By the way…  Never jack a T up by putting a jack under the differential!  The Model T differential housing is not strong enough to support the weight of the T on that one point and a sprung differential and axles are very likely!  Check the tire pressures.  25 to 30 pounds in 21 inch tires and 45 to 50 pounds in clinchers should do the job.  A slightly lower pressure than normal will take some strain off the tires but let them keep their normal shape.

Taking the weight off the wheels is also a good idea for the wood spoke wheels.  The weight of the car is normally on the bottom two spokes in each wheel.  Over time, this constant pressure can compress the bottom spokes enough to cause them to be loose.

Drain the oil and pour in four quarts of new oil.  Drain the radiator.  Remove the spark plugs and squirt some engine oil in each cylinder.  Do replace the spark plugs so moisture can’t get in.

Remove the battery.  Don’t store on a cement floor as it will discharge the battery.  That should do it. When you’re ready to roll at some future date, the start-up should go much faster.

See you down the road…

What Oil for T’s

By E. Meloan (This article was originally published in the September, 2002 issue of the Spark Coil.)

Hi fellow Model T’ers!  A question came through the E-Mail Model T a few weeks ago that made me realize that some of the things we “old timers” take for granted may not be known to new folks who are just getting their first Model T.  With that in mind, I thought we might discuss some things that might be helpful to a new owner.

Let’s begin with one of the most common questions asked by new owners. “What oil should I use?”  Ask a group of T owners that and your probably get at least three or four answers…  ALL different!  Some owners will suggest that you use a non-detergent single weight oil.  Probably 30 weight if the engine is in good shape and 40 weight for an older loose engine.  While there is nothing in this advice that will do any harm, I don’t believe it is the best oil for our T’s.

Modern multi-viscosity oils with detergents might almost have been made with the Model T in mind!  They keep the dirt in suspension rather than letting it coat the insides of the engine provided we do our part and change the oil reasonably often.  They control foaming and the T engine surely needs that with those sixteen magnets churning up the oil!  They don’t thicken in cold weather, making the car much easier to start.  And, they maintain their viscosity and lubricating qualities when the engine gets hot during the summer.  Pretty good reasons to use them!

The one place where a non-detergent single viscosity oil might be good would be in a newly rebuilt engine for the first 500 to 1000 miles.  The superior lubricating qualities of the multi-viscosity oils probably prevent the small amount of wear we want so that rings will seal and parts will wear in and seat themselves.  After 1000 miles with non-detergent, I’d switch to the multi-viscosity detergent oil.

There has been considerable discussion about whether it’s ok to use a detergent oil in an old engine that has built up a lot of varnish and deposits over the years.  Some folks feared that switching to a detergent oil would cause these deposits to loosen and clog the small oil holes in the bearings.

The research departments of a number of major oil companies have tested detergent oils in heavily coated old engines and found that rapid loosening of the deposits does not occur.  Instead, a gradual washing away of the deposits takes place over a period of time with the engine becoming cleaner and cleaner.  This does suggest that if we begin using detergent oil in an old, dirty engine, it might be a good idea to change the oil much more frequently the first few times.  Maybe after the first 100 miles and then every couple hundred miles up to the first 1000.

Multi-viscosity oil can really make a difference when starting your Model T!  You’ll be pleasantly surprised at how much easer the engine will turn over with a good multi-weight oil.  This is certainly true in winter but can even be felt in summer as well.

So… what weight oil is best.  A number of weights have been recommended in various discussion groups but I have found plain 10w30 to work as well as any.  It’s easy to find and relatively inexpensive.  If I had a worn engine, I might move up to the slightly thicker 10w40 to add a little more cushion and help the leakage somewhat.

The oil troughs under the rods catch a fair amount of oil and, when we are changing it, these troughs keep a lot of dirty oil in the crankcase which immediately mixes with the fresh new oil.  There’s an old saying amongst the old-timers… “A half gallon of clean oil added to a half gallon of dirty oil makes a gallon of dirty oil!”  One way to get some of this dirty oil out is to jack up the front of the car as high as you can, leave the drain plug out, and pour a quart of clean oil in the engine.  You’ll be surprised at the additional dirty oil you’ll see coming out the drain!  Put in the drain cap, let the car down and add your new oil. I’ve found that it takes about 3 and a half quarts when the troughs are already full.  It’s not a bad idea to add the other half quart as oil helps cool the engine.  The down side of too much oil is that the T engine will tend to smoke more if not in good mechanical condition.

When checking oil, open the top petcock.  If you have flow there, you have more oil then you need.  If no flow, open the bottom petcock.  If no flow there, you better be opening a few cans post haste!  Be sure it is a stream and not just a drop or two.  You can get a drop even when the oil is below the petcock!

We’ll continue these tips for new T owners and drivers in our next issue.  Until then,

I’ll see you down the road…

Preparation for Driving on Mountain Tours

By E. Meloan (This article was originally published in the May, 2001 issue of the Spark Coil.)

Howdy, fellow Model T’ers!  Summer is here and, some of us will be touring on some beautiful mountain roads in our T’s. The upcoming Horseless Carriage Club of America’s Atlanta Region “Great Smokey Mountain Tour” is one of many mountain tours planned by various clubs this summer and is a great chance to try our driving skills and cars.  Driving in the mountains can be a lot of fun and the cooler temperatures and spectacular scenery can make it a trip to remember.  But to make sure we have a trouble free trip, there are some things we can do to make our mountain driving safer and more enjoyable.

Mountain driving can be a challenge to any antique automobile but it is especially so for our two-speed Model T’s.  This is one place where a second gear would be a great help!  But equally important is the ability to slow down or stop completely on steep mountain grades.  So, our bands must be in good condition and adjusted properly if we are to enjoy a safe ride.  Careful use of the pedals will also help the bands maintain their

ability to work reliably.

Our wood spoke wheels also experience additional strain in mountain driving as does the cooling system. All these things are important but with a little care and preparation we can have a trouble-free trip.

The cooling system should be clean and filled with water and a good anti-corrosion additive or a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze.  Cooling is slightly more efficient with water than antifreeze.  If you have a water pump, check the packing for leaks and inspect the fan belt.  If the belt is good, check the tension.  It will need to be higher for a water pump but you don’t want it any tighter than necessary to turn the fan and pump.  The spark lever also affects cooling.  Run your spark at the point where the engine has the most power without knocking.  If you encounter a steep grade, retarding the spark can help the engine pull more easily.

Check your wood spokes!!  If they are loose, you are inviting a disaster!  Wood wheels should never click or groan!  If they do, find out why.  Would you like to have a wheel collapse as you go around a sharp mountain turn with a drop of hundreds of feet right at the edge of the road?  I have seen it happen!  Check your wood spokes!!

Check your tire pressures.  Not less than 50 pounds in 30 inch clinchers and 35 pounds in 21 inch balloon tires.  Less than 50 in a clincher will invite a blowout or at least a severed valve stem!

Inspect your bands and replace if worn.  I suggest either Kevlar or wood.  Kevlar is easier to install but both give good service.  Don’t wait till the trip to adjust a new set of bands.  Install them. Set them loosely, run them till they seat and then adjust once more.  Kevlar and wood will then give long life if used properly.  Setting them too tight will cause rapid wear and possible drum failure!

Getting long life out of bands is not hard.  It just requires a little thought.  The enemy of all bands is heat!  We depend on the oil in the transmission to cool the bands.  Heat is also generated when bands slip!  If you must use low gear on a steep grade, press the pedal all the way down FIRMLY.  Don’t let your foot relax and the low band slip! Try to anticipate when low will be needed and don’t wait until the engine is lugging and in

danger of stalling!  That’s a good way to break a crankshaft in a T!  If you do stall and your brakes won’t hold the car, cut your wheels IF THERE IS ROOM and let the car turn sideways in the road BEFORE it begins to pick up speed backwards.  You do NOT want to be rolling backwards down a steep grade with cars behind you!

When slowing or stopping, press the brake pedal a couple of seconds and then release for a couple of seconds to allow oil to get in the band and cool it. Continue this on/off action as long as you are using the brake.  The mountains are a great place to have Rocky Mountain Brakes!  The same on/off action works with them as well.  We want to allow the brake bands a time to cool.

Enjoy the mountain scenery and I’ll see you down the road...

Tires, Low Gear, and Brakes

By E. Meloan (This article was originally published in the November, 1999 issue of the Spark Coil.)

Howdy, fellow Model T’ers!  The summer touring season is over and Susan and I have had a lot of fun touring in Georgia, Tennessee and Mississippi this year.  During those tours, I’ve seen some  folks who have experienced problems I’d like to chat about.

A surprising number of folks who own Model T’s with 30×3 1/2 and 30×3 clincher tires do not know what the tire pressure in these clinchers should be!  Several T’s had tire problems because the tires had too little air in them.  Clincher tires require much higher pressures than the later 21 inch balloon tires.  A clincher tire should be inflated to at least 50 pounds pressure and 55 to 60 is probably better!  Lower pressures will allow the tire and tube to creep around the rim and will eventually cause the valve stem to be severed!   I was watching as one gentleman with a very nice touring car, backed it out of his trailer at the beginning of one tour.  The tires all looked low and, when I asked him what pressure he was running,  he replied 35 pounds.  35 is great for a 21 incher but NOT for 30’s!  Another fella, on a different tour, was remarking about having to change a flat and when I asked what happened, he said the valve stem was cut off.  When I asked if he was using 35 pounds, he replied yes!

While on the subject of clincher rims and tires, I’d like to suggest that all clinchers should be installed with a tire flap.  I realize there are some who don’t think they are necessary but flaps can eliminate many of the problems clinchers seem to have.  They help protect from tube pinches when installing the tire and they help protect the tube in the area where the tire edges come together in the rim.  While a little expensive, they can be used over and over and I feel they are well worth the cost.  I once had a demountable clincher rim separate because of rust!  The flap kept the tube protected and I was able to continue driving until I reached a service station and could change the tire safely.

Most of us know about the danger of the Model T low gear peddle going past center and locking in the low position but in case we have some new folks who don’t, lets mention it.  One of the participants of the tour along the Natchez Trace had the very unsettling experience of pushing his pedal into low and having it lock  there!  He finally reached down and pulled it back with his hand but it is a scary feeling!

This problem can occur if low gear is allowed to become too loose.  The pedal swings past the center of the linkage with the high speed clutch and is locked there!  The fix is simply to tighten the low band so that the pedal cannot go down that far.  When adjusting the low band, a good method is to loosen the band, push the pedal all the way down, and then tighten it until the pedal has been moved about two inches from the extreme down position.  This should result in a good low that is not too tight on the drum but will give a solid engagement of low gear.

Lets talk briefly about the Model T brakes…  While a well adjusted transmission brake can lock the rear wheels on a T, they are placing a terrible stress on the entire drive train when they do it!  The normal ring and pinion ratio give you almost a 4 to 1 mechanical advantage when pressing the brake pedal but this advantage is also putting a tremendous strain on those 80 year old ring and pinion gears and axles!  If any of these fail, you will be left with NO brakes at all!

For this reason, I  heartily recommend external rear brakes such as the “Rocky Mountain” brand!  While not cheap they can save a lot of expensive repairs to the drive train and they may save your life!  This is even more important for folks who are using two speed rear ends.  If these get shifted to neutral, you have NO brakes unless you have installed external rear brakes.  If you tour a lot, you really should have “Rocky Mountain” brakes for safety and peace of mind.  See you down the road…

Bands

(This article was originally published in the May, 1998 issue of the Spark Coil.) 

There are lots of areas, to discuss... Some may be a little controversial and you may not agree with my ideas. That's ok! I'd really like to hear YOUR opinion about anything we talk about here. Let me know if you think it's helpful OR let me know if you absolutely think I'm running on an empty gas tank. I'll be happy to include your comments, agreeing or disagreeing, in later articles.

Some areas I thought might be interesting are modern band materials, coils versus distributors, 12 volt batteries versus 6 volt batteries and how to change to 12 volts if we decide we want to use one. Modern lubricants in our T's,. There are lots of areas we can talk about! If there's one you would like discussed, just let me know and we'll try and dig up something on it.

Let's get started by talking about those @$%*&#$ bands we all have buried under that aluminum or cast iron "hogs head". Changing the bands is NOT a job that anyone looks forward to doing! So, when we do replace them, we'd like to use something that will last as long as possible!

When Henry's pride and joy was regular transportation, the bands were woven cotton with wooden bands becoming available in the twenties. Some folks managed to get 5000 miles out of a set of cotton bands while others could bum them up in one trip to town! The secret was all in how you used the pedals. Even with the modem materials now available, that's still true. We'll talk more about that but first let's see what's available for our cars now.

In recent years, folks have tried the molded band material from modem automatic transmissions but most found that, while they lasted well, they were not smooth and had a tendency to grab. Bands that grab are hard on the drive train and our driving enjoyment!

Recently, I've seen ads for wooden bands again. Wooden Bands?? Yep. And they apparently work surprisingly well. They give pretty good service and after they wear in, they are reasonably smooth. They are a little more difficult to install then woven bands because they are not as flexible. They should be soaked in oil before installation and it's best to remove the transmission cover to install them so you don't deform the steel band. They should be adjusted VERY loosely until run a hundred miles or so and then re-adjusted where you like them. They will then hold that adjustment pretty well.

The newest development in band material is the KEVLAR band. That's right! The same thing they use to make bullet proof vests! Kevlar bands are offered by several companies. I've used several sets made by the folks in Colorado and have been very pleased with them. They install just like the cotton bands. I suggest installing loosely and running for a few miles to let them settle in. Then adjust them as you like them and get ready for a pleasant surprise! They're smooth AND they will run a LOT of miles before they need adjusting again. I have a set on my 1912 T that have been used through the Glidden tour and a week long tour in the Blue Ridge mountains. They have about 4000 miles on them and they still look new and have not needed adjusting!

Regardless of the band material, you determine how long they will last by how you use those pedals! Reverse is not usually a problem since it gets very little use. In fact, we can use reverse to help make the brake last longer. The enemy is HEAT and we want to let cool oil get to the bands to cool them! When you use the brake, don't hold it down like a modem car. Press for a few seconds then release a second or two. The press again continuing the pumping action. Or, better still... alternate between the brake and the reverse pedal to allow the bands to cool. Even with modem materials, we still control how long our bands will last. A little "foot work" pays off

See you down the road...

Troubleshooting the Electical System 

Part I

By E. Meloan (This article was originally published in the March, 2003 issue of the Spark Coil.)

Howdy, fellow Model T’ers! I’d like to spend a couple of articles discussing the Model T electrical system and problems that can keep our car from getting us out on the road!

The 1909 through 1914 T’s have a very simple system. Two wires are attached to the coil box to provide electrical current. Looking at the box from the front of the car, the post on the lower right has a wire that connects to the magneto terminal on top of the hogshead (transmission cover). The post on the coil box is connected through a wire inside the box to the Magneto side of the coil switch. Located on the lower left of the coil box is the battery terminal which was usually hooked to the positive terminal of a six volt battery or a group of six lantern batteries to provide current for starting the car. An internal wire inside the box will connect this post to the “Battery” side of the coil box switch. A third wire goes from the switch down to the copper strip on the bottom of the coil box which contacts the button on the bottom of each coil to provide the positive voltage.

Four wires are attached to the row of posts along the top of the coil box which connect to the timer (commutator) Again, looking from the front of the car, the left wire should go to the post on the timer that is grounded when the spark plug in number one cylinder fires. The second post from the left is cylinder two. The third three and the forth, cylinder four. The actual firing order for the “T” engine is 1,2,4,3 so we must be remember to reverse the wires on the timer for 3 and 4!

Add four high tension wires which go from the lower row of posts to the spark plugs and you have the total wiring system for a pre-1915 T!

While six volts will start the car, it is not enough voltage to operate the coils well at speeds above about 20 miles an hour. So, you turn the coil switch to the “Bat” side to start on battery and when the engine is running, move the switch to “Mag” for driving. A good magneto will put out 20 to 30 volts and make the coils really sing!

The electrical problems with the 09/14 system were pretty much limited to loose connections or shorts in the commutator wiring and coil problems.

Probably the most likely spot for trouble is the commutator and commutator wiring. I’d be hard pressed to think of a worse location for a timer than the one on a “T”! It’s not easy to get at, it gets wet and coated with oil and the connections are very close to things that can short them out!

Looking again from the front of the car, the commutator contact at the 11 o’clock position will normally be number one. The timer rotor turns counter-clockwise so the number two contact will be the one at 8 o’clock. That takes care of the two contacts on the left side of the timer. The bottom right contact (4 o’clock) will have number 4 (NOT 3) because 4 fires BEFORE 3. And the contact at the 2 o’clock position will connect to the number 3 coil.

Common problems are timer wires that have broken off from the continual flexing and wire connectors on the timer contacts that touch the timer advance rod as it moves through its arc. Also check for pan bolts that can short out the lower contacts on the timer case.

If you remove the sparkplug wires from the plugs and switch on the battery, each coil should buzz as you hand crank the engine slowly. Disconnecting the sparkplug wires can save you from a broken arm should there be a short that makes a coil fire when its piston is in the wrong position! You can quickly check your timer wiring by shorting out each timer contact to the timer case with a screw driver and checking to make sure that the proper coil buzzes with the proper timer contact.

One last thought… Not all timers fire at the same position! The little tool sold to set timing by the “T” suppliers was meant for the original Ford timer. NOT for the New Day or the Anderson timer! We’ll continue this discussion in the next newsletter.

See you down the road…

Part III

By E. Meloan (This article was originally published in the July, 2003 issue of the Spark Coil.)

In our last column, we continued our discussion of the electrical system of the Model T.  We mentioned problems associated with the magneto.  Now let’s talk about recharging the magnets in the Ford Model T magneto system…

Success depends on several things.  The condition of the magneto coil windings, the gap between the magnets and the magneto coils and the care with which we align the magnets when we attempt to charge them.

There is no question that getting freshly charged magnets from a Model T parts supplier or individually recharging your old magnets when the engine is apart will usually offer a more reliable method of getting a strong magneto output.  This is the way to go if you are rebuilding your engine anyway.  But if the engine is in good mechanical condition and the magneto is the only problem, then it may be worth considering a recharge effort.   One other comment before we go ahead with magneto recharging…  The modern distributor setups sold by the T parts suppliers do not need the magneto!  The distributor will work quite well using a six or twelve volt storage battery and will eliminate the need for the magneto and four spark coils.

Still interested in a magneto recharge?  OK, let’s get started.  The first thing we will need is a good strong source of current.  Two 12 volt car batteries will serve nicely.  We will want to hook them up in series to get 24 volts.  We will need heavy cables to carry the current.  Two sets of jumper cables will work for that.  Half of one set will connect the negative post of one battery to the positive post of the other battery.  The other set of cables will be used from the batteries to the car.

We will also need a compass.  The compass will allow us to line up the magnets with the coils as shown in diagram 1.  Your success will depend on how accurately you line the magnets up with the coils!  Care used here will help get the best results.  Position the car so that it points east and west then place the compass 1 inch behind and 1 1/2 inches to the right of the magneto contact on the flywheel housing as shown in diagram 2

When the flywheel is positioned correctly the north seeking portion of the compass needle will point to the front of the car.  Moved to the left hand position, the compass will point to the rear of the car.

Connect the cable from the negative post of the batteries to the magneto post.  We want to make our contact with the positive cable to the flywheel housing to lessen the possibility of damage to the magneto post.   Now, firmly touch the positive cable to the housing and hold it there for 2 or 3 seconds.  Do not hold longer!  It is the initial jolt that does the work!  Holding it longer can damage the coil windings!  Best results will be obtained by repeating the contact several times.

NOW turn the crank to move the flywheel 1/4 turn and line up the magnets with the compass again.  Repeat the contacts at the new position of the flywheel.  Do this every 1/4 turn until you are back at your original position.  That’s it!  More details can be found in Murray Fahnstock’s excellent book “The Model T Ford Owner” available from any T parts supplier.

See you down the road…

Part V

By E. Meloan (This article was originally published in the November, 2003 issue of the Spark Coil.)

Howdy, Fellow Model T’ers!  Let’s continue our discussion of the Model T electrical system.  In our last article, we touched briefly on the terminal block used in the cars equipped with starters and generators.  I’d like to spend a little more time on the details of the terminal block and wiring.

I’ll use the 6 screw block in my discussion since it is the most common.

I mentioned the terminal block as a common source of problems in the last article and since this is so important, I want to emphasize it again.  Unless your terminal block has been replaced, it is very likely to have screw holes which, because of age and wear, will not hold the wires in tight contact!  The connections on the terminal block control every circuit except the starter and are a frequent source of intermittent electrical problems!  It is very important that your  check this block carefully and if it can’t hold the screws TIGHT, repair or replace it!

Let’s go over the wires that attach through the terminal block.  Looking at the block from the front of the car, and starting on the left, we have the following attachments.

Terminal # 1 (GEN) should have two or three wires attached.  A yellow wire with a black tracer to the generator cutout and a yellow wire with a black tracer to the ammeter.  If you want the horn to show a discharge on the ammeter when blown, then also connect the black wire from the horn button to terminal # 1.

Terminal # 2 (MAG)  A red wire from the magneto post on the flywheel housing (routed

Under the firewall) and a red wire to the magneto terminal on the dashboard combination ignition/light switch.

Terminal # 3 (BAT)  A yellow wire from BATTERY side of the starter switch and a yellow wire to the ammeter.  Normally the generator wire goes to left terminal on the ammeter (looking at the back of the meter) and the BATtery wire goes to the right terminal of the meter.  If the meter shows a charge when the lights are on and the engine is not running, reverse positions of the two wires on the back of the ammeter!

Terminal # 4 (TAIL)  A black wire to the tail light and a black wire to the TAIL terminal of the ignition/light switch.   I also like to connect a dash light to this terminal so that it is switched on whenever  the lights are on.

Terminal # 5 (DIM) Headlights.  A black with red tracer wire to each headlight and a black with red tracer wire to the DIM terminal on the ignition/light switch.

Terminal # 6 (BRT) Headlights.  A black with green tracer wire to each headlight and a black with green tracer wire to the BRIGHT terminal on the ignition/light switch.

If your car uses twin filament bulbs, the bulb will have one filament centered in the bulb and a second filament off-center in the bulb.  Bulbs should be put in the socket so that the centered filament is on when BRIGHT is selected and the off-center filament is on when DIM is selected.  The off-center filament should be above the centered filament so the beam is thrown down on the road by the reflector.

The Model T electrical system can be very reliable if we just take care of it.

See you down the road…

12 Volt

 I talked about one part of the Model "T" ignition system.  Various timers were discussed and I recommended the Anderson Timer that is now being manufactured by Bob Thompson.  There are two other things which are vital to the smooth operation of the original system the "T" used.  They are the magneto and the coils.

There's a lot of discussion about whether the original coil/timer system can work as well as an after-market distributor.  Having run both systems in my 12 and 22 T's, I can tell you that my personal feeling is the original coil/timer system can work just as reliably and with no more adjustment than a distributor system IF the coils have a good condenser, are adjusted correctly  and the magneto puts out enough voltage OR you use a 12 volt battery!  We'll talk about the 12 volt option further down the page.

Let's talk briefly about the magneto.  To have a sweet running  coil system you must have a magneto that will put out about 7 volts while idling and about 25 volts or more when driving down the road.  A number of factors can effect the magneto's output.  The most common problem is probably magnets which over a period of 75 years have lost much of their magnetism due to heat and vibration.  While it is certainly better to recharge low magnets while out of the engine, I have recharged them successfully using three 12 volt batteries in series and carefully lining up the magnets using a compass.  The method is described in a number of publications so I won't go into details here.

Another cause of low voltage from the magneto is wear on the engine's main bearings!  As the bearings wear the space between the magnets and the coils increases and the voltage drops rapidly!  During the Model "T" era, a number of companies offered gadgets designed to control the end-play to keep the magnets near the magneto coils but I know of none that are available today.  About the only solution I know of is to rebuild the engine and set the clearance correctly when you reassemble.

The last set of problems we can run across with the magneto are no voltage at all!  This will generally be caused by a shorted or open magneto coil.  The magneto coils have to withstand a very hostile environment. They are constantly bombarded with very hot oil which has minute particle of metal in it!  If some of these particles work their way through the insulation a short may result.  Sometimes it is possible to burn a short off by using the same setup we use to recharge the magnets.  A heavy jolt of high amperage current for 10 to 15 seconds may  burn off the shorting material.  This method is not for the "faint of heart" though.

An open magneto coil system is also a possibility.  Unfortunately, this  usually can not be repaired without disassembling the engine.

And one last place to check when you have no or low voltage is the magneto contact terminal on the top of the hogshead.  Sometimes fluff from the bands will build up here and work its way between the solder point on the coil assembly and the contact point of the terminal.  It's easy to check and should be the first thing you look at if you have a low output problem.  Just take out the contact terminal and look for fluffy material on the solder point and contact point.  Clean them and cross your fingers.

You can check the voltage with an inexpensive AC voltmeter.  Yep!  the magneto is alternating current not direct current like the battery.   And by the way...  The alternating current means that the spark lever should be set slightly differently for magneto running than for battery running.  By careful experimentation, you'll notice a definite "sweet spot" for the spark lever that the magneto and coils really like.  Look for it!  It's well worth finding.

If your magneto just won't "cut the mustard", don't give up!  A 12 volt battery will make the old "T" run just about as well as the magneto and will actually run a little better at slow speeds because the magneto drops to 6 or 7 volts when crawling along in the parades.

See you down the road…